SHAPING NAILS

Now that your nails are long, they need to be shaped so they don't break, or worse don't hurt someone because of their sharp edges. The five most common shapes that are given to nails are:

• Oval

• Square 

• Squoval

• Round

• Pointy

Oval Nails

This is one of the most common nail shapes that go well with long as well as short fingers. Ovals can be longer to highlight a long nail bed, or they can be shorter to complement a shorter nail bed. The oval can add length to a nail while retaining the softer curves of the round shape. 

To achieve the oval shape, first begin by straightening your sidewalls and making sure they are even. Then begin filing from the side of the nail toward the top, using smooth, arching motions with the file. From there, work your angles on both sides and around the free edge to smooth into the oval shape you’re looking for. The finished oval should have a nice balance between the cuticle shape and the free edge.

Square Nails

The square nail is the classic acrylic shape — straight side walls and two sharp points on the tips.  It is the staple shape for the traditional French manicure and is used frequently for detailed nail art designs. A sharp square nail could make the nail appear shorter and stubbier. But for longer nail beds, the square can complement the nail and add length to the finger.

 To file into the classic square shape, straighten the free edge, noting that when looking at it the file should be perpendicular to the nail to achieve the hard square. File the side wall straight up and then change the angle to blend. Repeat this on the other side. Once both sides are finished, use angles to lightly feather and bevel the nail and to sharpen the corners.

Squoval Nails

The squoval is one of the most common shapes. It is essentially a conservative square with the length of a square nail but the softer edges of an oval. Squoval nails add versatility, enabling short, wide nail beds to carry the length without appearing oversized. 

To file the squoval, first begin with the square. Build it square so that the side walls are straight. Once the side walls are straight, tilt the file underneath the corners and file back and forth from the underneath up. This will gradually take the corners off. Keep in mind that you only want to round the tip that is past the free edge, this way you do not take anything away from the side walls.

Round Nails

The round shape is frequently used to create a softer, less noticeable look because the shape mirrors the natural contours of the nail. The rounded shape can make the hands look a bit thinner. Round nails can also soften hand features by providing a well-kept and subtle nail outline.

To get the round shape, it is best to file the side walls straight out, and then to just round out the edges into a nice curved shape. Be careful not to take too much off on each side or else it will look unbalanced. A good tip to remember is to visualize making a square, filing the side walls straight out, then simply round the corners with moderate angles to complete the shape.

Pointy Nails

The pointed nail is not seen as often as other shapes. A pointed shape is a little more adventurous than shapes like the oval, squoval, or even square, but given the right circumstances a pointed nail can create length and have a slendering effect on the hand. Smaller hands with smaller nail beds can use a pointed nail to create a subtle appearance of length, while long, slender nail beds take pointed nails to a more noticeable and extreme level.

 The technique to create pointy nails is based on the letter “I” where the center of the “I” shape is the upper arch that forms a line running down the nail bed. The top of the “I” is bending the cuticle flush with the natural nail, and the bottom of the “I” is looking down the barrel of the nail to make sure the C-curve is even. The pointed tip requires taking the top of the “I” to a point that meets at the center of the apex. Once the “I” is in formation, it is just a matter of blending everything in so you have perfect harmony in the nail shape.